Sui and Tang: The Great Tang Dynasty, the gorgeous trend under the Hu Clothing

I. The Transformation of Fashion in an Open and Flourishing Tang Dynasty

The Tang Dynasty absorbed a wealth of foreign cultures, creating a fashion landscape that was both inclusive and innovative. The Silk Road facilitated the influx of Hu-style elements, which quickly gained popularity among nobles and civilians alike.

1. Wide-Robed Elegance vs. Fitted Hu Attire

• In the early Tang Dynasty, traditional wide-sleeved robes (round-collar robes, long tunics) remained dominant for men, while women favored ruqun (blouses and skirts) and long shawls.
• However, during the reigns of Emperor Gaozong and Empress Wu Zetian, Hu attire gained widespread popularity. Noblewomen began embracing fitted ruqun, narrow-sleeved jackets, and leather belts, reflecting a significant departure from the conventional flowing garments.

2. The Influence of Turkic and Sogdian Styles

• With frequent interactions between the Tang Dynasty and the Western regions, narrow sleeves, high collars, and waist-fitted Hu attire became a fashion statement, particularly among aristocrats and military figures.
• Polo, a sport introduced from Persia, became widely played among the elite. Women began wearing riding attire, including tight-sleeved jackets, trousers, and boots, breaking away from the traditional female dress code that had previously required skirts.

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II. The Prominence of Hu Attire in Tang Fashion

1. Women’s Fashion: From Flowing Elegance to Heroic Boldness

• High-Coiffed Hairstyles and Hu-Style Outfits: Tang women popularized high buns and shawls, paired with short tops, long skirts, and Hu hats, blending feminine grace with an air of confidence.
• Masculine-Inspired Attire for Women: Aristocratic women sometimes wore male-styled Hu attire, featuring tight-fitting jackets, wide belts, and riding boots, showcasing their independence and strength.

2. Men’s Fashion: The Fusion of Hu and Han Elements

• Round-Collar Robes with Leather Belts: Inspired by Hu attire, traditional round-collar robes became slimmer in fit, with men wearing layered belts (蹀躞带) for a structured, polished look.
• The Rise of Boots: Unlike the previous preference for cloth shoes or wooden sandals, leather boots became essential for Tang nobility and soldiers, emphasizing practicality and rugged elegance.

3. Vibrant Colors and Ornate Decorations

• Bold Color Combinations: Hu attire brought a newfound appreciation for vibrant hues such as red, gold, emerald green, deep blue, and purple, adding a striking visual impact.
• Exotic Jewelry: Under the influence of Sogdian and Persian aesthetics, aristocratic women began adorning themselves with coral, turquoise, amber, and intricate gold and silver ornaments, enhancing the splendor of their attire.

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III. The Social Impact of Hu Fashion Trends

1. The Imperial Court’s Embrace of Hu Attire

• During Empress Wu Zetian’s reign, Hu-style clothing fully integrated into the upper-class fashion scene. Court ladies, princesses, and concubines frequently wore narrow-sleeved jackets, layered skirts, and ornate belts, sometimes opting for male-styled riding outfits when traveling.
• In Emperor Xuanzong’s era, Yang Guifei, one of the most famous beauties of the Tang Dynasty, particularly loved Hu attire. She even inspired a trend where court women performed the Hu Xuan Dance while dressed in exotic garments.

2. Hu Fashion Among Commoners

• Due to the practicality of riding-friendly Hu outfits, merchants, couriers, and even warriors adopted short tunics, pants, and boots for everyday use.
• The widespread popularity of Hu attire encouraged advancements in textile production, dyeing techniques, and embroidery, further boosting trade along the Silk Road.

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IV. The Legacy and Influence of Hu Fashion

1. Lasting Impact on Later Chinese Fashion

• The influence of Tang Dynasty Hu fashion extended into later dynasties, inspiring fitted robes, pleated skirts, Mongolian robes, and high-waisted tunics seen in Song and Yuan attire.
• In today’s Hanfu revival movement, many Tang-style Hanfu designs still incorporate Hu-inspired elements, such as high-waisted skirts, round-collar robes, and decorative belts.

2. A Symbol of Cultural Openness

• The popularity of Hu attire was more than just a fashion statement—it was a testament to the Tang Dynasty’s inclusive and cosmopolitan culture. It reflected China’s willingness to embrace foreign influences while integrating them into its own rich traditions.